Bibliocook: All About Food

Open any page in A Table in the Tarn and you're likely to be seduced. I got stuck in the Deserts, Petits Four and Chocolates chapter, with recipes for Blackcurrant Leaf Sorbet, Home-Made Vanilla Marshmallows and Cocoa-Nib Florentines but, once I tore myself away from the sweet things, there was much more to recommend this memoir-style cookbook.

A former editor of the BBC's Good Food and Olive Magazines, Orlando Murrin, together with his partner Peter Steggall, abandoned the hurly burly of London life to reclocate to the South-West of France. The first chunk of the book tells the tale of their buying the rundown Le Manoir de Raynaudes in the Tarn countryside and renovating it, followed by five chapters of recipes ranging from Parmesan, Nigella and Sesame Bites and Caramelised Potatoes through Tart Tatin of Chicory and Twice Baked Garlic Soufflés.

The emphasis is on food that is both seasonal and local. There are many dishes that can be prepared ahead and are easy to cook for crowds. Tips on presentation at the end of recipes are thoughtful without being too faffy, the Baking, Tea and Breakfast chapter is first class and there is a selection of particularly good potato recipes. As befits his background, Orlando is very strong on timings and temperatures, including settings for the fan ovens that many of us are inflicted with.

A Table in the Tarn is rather like an upmarket brochure for what Orlando calls “a reassuringly expensive” boutique hotel in France, with lots of gardening information – and plenty of pragmatic advice for those who may find themselves similarly tempted. However, it is also an absorbing and inspiring read, with recipes aplenty to try in your own kitchen. Maybe on our next trip to France there'll have to be a visit, Raynaudes-direction.

A Table in the Tarn by Orlando Murrin is published by HarperNonFiction.

Have you ever been to Dingle? Despite the best of intentions over the years – and the Husband visiting there regularly since he moved to Ireland – it's taken me quite a while to get round to visiting. But, when there's a pot of Murphys' Ice Cream at the end of the trip, how can you resist?

The sun shone for our drive there as we toasted pleasantly in the car, admiring the strand at Inch and the fact that we could see right across Dingle Bay. Scenary looks much more pleasant in sunlight, somehow. The tourists that wandered around the town had an air – not often seen this summer – of satisfaction, of being perfectly happy to briefly visit a few shops before getting back to the wilds and views, unlike last week's bedraggled lost-looking wanderers in Kenmare. And everywhere you walked there was someone eating ice cream. Ice cream in cones, ice cream in small blue tubs, groups of people standing outside Murphys' Ice Cream shop, swapping tastes of their chosen scoops, old couples walking on the sea front, making sure they didn't lose any last drops of their ice cream and ice cream all over babies' faces.

So, you make your way to the distinctively blue and white shop for your own ice cream – but which one? Will you go for an old-school classic like Vanilla or Chocolate, something with a bit more texture – Honeycomb, Cookies and Cream, perhaps? - or will you have to go straight for the latest unusual flavour that's arrived behind the counter: Guinness and Chocolate, anyone? Maybe the best way of deciding is to try them all – and then there's the small matter of figuring out which coffee or hot chocolate to drink, whether you actually need to buy a slice of one of the delectable cakes on offer and how many different bars of Valrhona chocolate you need to take home with you when you reluctantly leave. Whole days can be lost here.

Kieran Murphy – for the man who makes the ice cream is always the best judge of how to eat it – persuaded me, not with too much difficulty, into trying an Affogato al Caffè. A shot of espresso over a scoop of chocolate whiskey ice cream: can you think of a better way of getting a caffine hit? It's a sophisticated take on an ice cream float, just for grown-ups, as long as the kids don't see it while you're gobbling. And then a little later, to finish, it's time for an Extreme Hot Chocolate. Kieran told me it was very healthy, not at all heavy, made with cocoa, and served wth a dollop of cream on the top to balance it all out. Try it – and then see if you can leave without the Ghirardelli cocoa that they use to make it. See? I'm a sucker. And Kieran is a bad influence. One large 1lb tub of the cocoa – after all they do have a Chocolate Frosting and a Brownies recipe on the back – and a box of 70% chocolate (for cooking with, I swear!) and I finally tear myself away. But I'll be back – after tasting a few of Mexican ideas in production for the Dingle Food Festival I'm not sure I could stay away.

I came across a post on Rose Levy Beranbaum's baking blog about her baking essentials and it got me thinking. This is her list on the left in bold, with my additions on the right.

A hand-held mixer – which I have and use regularly, although I do love and use my KitchenAid a lot too!
A weighing scale – after years of using regular scales, I have become an electronic devotee. It's small, it's slim, it takes up no room on my worktop and I can use it to measure everything, normally in the pan that I will mix or melt it in (saves on washing up too) in either grams, ounces, fluid ounces or mililitres. I don't know how I lasted so long without it.
A set of measuring cups – essential if you do a lot of cooking from American or New Zealand/Australian recipes. Remember that those cup sizes are different, however.
A cup for measuring liquids – I normally use my electronic scales but I do find my pyrex jug very useful for any ingredients that need to get melted in the microwave.
A set of measuring spoons – always in use.
A sifter or strainer – I have the one that I bought about ten years ago, a green plastic thing that has seen me through many house moves and refuses to die.
A 9 inch by 2 inch cake pan – I'm not entirely sure what she's talking about here. I have a 9-inch springform tin that I use for all cakes.
A 10 cup fluted tube pan – I have one of these but I rarely use it. I've found that it's too easy to overbake a cake in the pan, especially if you are stuck with a fan oven, as I am.
Two wire cooling racks – I can and have managed with one, using the grill tray from the cooker or a cooker shelf if a second one is necesary. These days, since joining my Dublin and cottage kitchens together, I've two for those days that I get fits of baking and one is just not enough.
An instant read thermometer such as a Thermapen or CDN – not yet and I'm not bothered.
A silicone spatula reserved for baking – I had two lovely red spatulas and used them all the time but since one broke I'm doing fine with just the small little one that's left.
A baking spray containing flour – not something I find necessary when I can just dip my hand in the bag and sprinkle.
A reliable recipe – always! Sometimes this cook is not entirely reliable, though...

And, if you're as into making Flapjacks and tray bakes as I am, you need at least two 23 x 30cm/9 x 12in Swiss roll tins. Mine are ancient battered old things that I picked up for a couple of quid years ago in Dunnes or Tesco. They have been used so much at this stage that the patina of age that has developed does duty as a non-stick layer but it's always best to do a considerable amount of greasing if you're cooking anything that might stick in them.

With this list to hand, I think I could certainly start going through my kitchen cupboards and seeing what excess I do have in there. But everybody needs some antique rabbit and tortoise jelly moulds, don't they?

A short trip to Kenmare earlier this week unearthed plenty of good food. Dinner at the Lime Tree was worth waiting for, as we arrived late, stepping into the lively, convivial atmosphere of the restaurant from a cold, damp night. There was plenty to choose from on the menu but my eye didn't go too far and I gladly devoured a dish of the sweetest Kilmacalogue mussels, steamed open in a in a lemon, garlic, ginger and corriander broth. Tempted though I was by the Kerry lamb on offer, I stuck with the seafood and enjoyed the monkfish instead. A portion of well-flavoured pea and chorizo risotto surrounded medallions of the fish, in a rosemary butter sauce, topped with long, curly parsnip crisps. There wasn't a lot left on the plate by the time the friendly waiting staff came to clear and I didn't even get to touch the, for me, superfluous side dishes of vegetables and potatoes. After all that, desert didn't even get a look in and I finished with a pot of peppermint tea.

Next morning, after breakfast, I took a quick trot into town to check out the farmers' market. The stall holders seemed to be busy, despite another rotten day and lots more rain. I just had enough time to pick up a bottle of olive oil from Toby's Olive Stall, along with a couple of purple-streaked heads of French garlic. Ever since the garlic that I brought home from France ran out, I've been desperately trying to find French, or at least European, garlic but most of the bulbs on offer seem to be sad old imports from China so I was delighted to come across garlic in Kenmare. I also grabbed some 2008 Wild Beara Honey and a chunk of honeycomb from a laid-back Californian who had all the time in the world to tell me about his wares. Unfortunately, I didn't have quite as much time to spend there – this time – so I had to grab the honey and go!

After a trip to Kilmacalogue pier, I ended back in Kenmare before heading home. Anxious to grab a bite to eat, I went into Jam and got a bowl of their Carrot and Ginger Soup. In the wrong hands this could have been disastrous but who ever was in the kitchen had a sure hand with the spicing and the soup was delicious, the perfect antidote for the miserable day outside. On my way out I couldn't resist one of the Chocolate and Nut Flapjacks – it's a self-service counter so you are totally tempted by a range of cakes and slices ever before you get to see what's on offer in the savoury side of things. I resisted initially but I was no sooner back in the car than half the Flapjack disappeared.

On my brief wander around town, I also liked the look of the Kenmare Food Company – great coffee smells and lovely books to browse through in the back – the mixture of fine wines, greeting cards, newspapers and quality chocolates in Vanilla Grape and the range of foods available at Truffle Pig. Plenty to investigate next time!

It's food festival season at the moment in North Cork with Mitchelstown holding its own festival this weekend, kicking off with a gala evening with Clodagh McKenna at the Firgrove Hotel tonight. You can see the menu below – it's got fantastic Clonmore Goat's Cheese from Tom Biggane, Nano Nagle organic eggs and apples, Araglin trout and David Lee’s honey, fresh from the bees that spent the early summer buzzing around our cottage garden. There's also a market taking place on Sunday from 12pm at the Mitchelstown Business Park.

Continue reading "Mitchelstown Food Festival" »

After I had been busily extolling the virtues of slices and bars available in New Zealand cafés while at work last week, my German Colleague asked if I had a recipe for Lemon Bars. Tan Slice and Ginger Crunch are things that I bake regularly but I had to admit that I had never tried to make the ubiquitous Lemon Slice as a lot of recipes involved separating eggs (I'm a lazy cook, I don't do separated eggs given half a chance or another recipe) or condensed milk or too many lemons at a time when I didn't have them.

Monday morning, after four eggs arrived back from the girls and I realised, post-cold recovery, that I had a bowl of lemons in the house, I decided to try out Julie Biuso's recipe for Sticky Lemon Slice. This fitted all the criteria – easy to make, uses up plenty of eggs from my stash and I had enough lemons, although next time I may add an extra lemon-worth of zest. If you're cooking this in a fan oven, I would recommend that you cook it about 20°C lower than the regular oven temperature as mine was a little dried out on top and I would have preferred more luscious lemon-ness. Also, if you have some of the topping left over as I did, pour it into a couple of expresso cups, and sit them in a bain-marie in the same oven for approximately 20 minutes until set – it makes a fantastic cheat's desert, especially served warm with a scoop of vanilla ice cream on top.

Continue reading "Sweet Treats for Work: Sticky Lemon Slice" »

* Ice Cream Ireland have a video of Slow Food founder Carlo Petrini talking at the Organics Conference.

* (The elusive) Martin Dywer tells of his experiences at
Terra Madre Waterford 2008 on martindwyer.com - watch out for him on Nationwide next!

* John McKenna, involved in the hotel food forum on Friday, writes about some of the suggestions posed to the Ministers on the Bridgestone Blog.

* Amanda Bankert of La Petite Pâtissière (and pastry chef at my favourite Cake Café in Dublin) writes about an eventful trip down to Waterford and her attendance at the Edible School Garden workshop with her three-year-old.

* Trevor Sargent's speech to Terra Madre Ireland 2008.

* Fishermen's Federation leaders at Waterford Terra Madre Slow Food conference from BYM Marine & Maritime News.

Also, more updates on the Terra Madre site, including:
Gourmet Food And Education At Terra Madre Ireland 2008
Terra Madre All Island Policy Conference A Huge Success
Launch of Terra Madre 2008
Harvesting Our Thanks to Nature - Irish Times

While the morning may have been clear and cool, with early arrivals dressed in fleeces and jeans, by lunchtime at the Terra Madre Farmers' Market in Waterford it was strappy frocks and sandals all the way as the crowds took to the streets in the sunshine. Stalls stretched up and down John Roberts Square, taking off into the side streets when they ran out of room. We arrived early, as the stallholders were setting up, and went in search of coffee but to no avail. Where are Cork Coffee Roasters when you need them?!

Desperate, I grabbed a cup of instant from the Coolanowle Organics stall, while the Husband decided that his breakfast was to be one of their large organic sausages in a roll. I didn't get to see much of that before it – and he – disappeared. He headed to the beach to enjoy the sunshine while I wandered around, bumping into Ballymaloe classmates and fellow foodies. I grabbed a handful of sweet, ripe cherry tomatoes from Rupert Hugh-Jones's Ballycotton Organics stall, before hitting pay-dirt at the eye-catching Cookie Jar stall nearby. American by birth and now based near Clonmel, Cate McCarthy makes the kind of homemade cookies that kids adore. Giant, five-inch Chocolate Chip, Oatmeal Raisin (my choice!) or Monster Cookies were sitting temptingly in the jars on the table, alongside her Boston Brownies and slices of New York Style Cheesecake. An enthuastic Richard Auler was handing out samples of his meaty organic beefburgers, made on the Ladybird Organic Farm near Cahir, Co Tipperary, along with plenty of information on the value of organic growing and their dry-aged Angus beef.

I headed straight to the well-stocked Gubbeen stall to pick up food for a market supper at home – a slice of chicken and lemon terrine, Gubbeen cheese crackers, chunks of Gubbeen cheese and chorizo – along with a chunk of smoked ham for the freezer and a catering pack of their streaky bacon, ready for chopping up into lardons to flavour autumnal soups and stews. I also stopped at the Ardsallagh stall to pick up one of Jane Murphy's pepper-coated soft goat's cheese from her colourful selection.

I missed out on the blaas – a white, floury bap that is a unique Waterford speciality – at Barron's Bakery but managed to get my fix at the Irish Country Markets marquee in Jenkins Lane Car Park, where they were serving brunch in a blaa, complete with rocket (important to get the greens in there) rasher, sausage, black pudding, fried egg and relish. A quick stop at the well-laden Malone Fruit Farm table to grab a bottle of their homemade blackcurrant cordial and it was time to go. The Husband was back from the beach, people were settling down around the big screen in the square to watch the match and I couldn't carry or eat much more food!

More reports of the weekend, including reports from the conference and workshops, will be online at the Terra Madre website.

For anyone interested in food, particularly Slow Food, it cannot have escaped your attention that Terra Madre Ireland will take place this week in Waterford.

It all kicks off on Thursday, with a National Organic Food Conference, then on Friday there are a series of workshops – from Irish Food Production: Post EU Quota, WTO and Peak Oil to GMOs and Food Tourism, Edible School Gardens, Food Miles and Routes to Market for Local Producers. You can have your say in advance on the discussion forum. This is the really serious business of the weekend as the information from these workshops will then be fed back to both Trevor Sargent, Minister of State for Food and Horticulture, and his counterpart in Northern Ireland, Farming Minister Michelle Gildernew.

On the lighter side of things, cookery demonstrations from Irish chefs have been scheduled for Thursday, Friday and Saturday. Being a huge fan of Café Paradiso, I'd definitely be at the Denis Cotter demo given half a chance. I've also been enjoying An Irish Adventure With Food so would love to go along to see Paul Flynn (of The Tannery) cooking with pork (both on Friday). My former teacher, Rachel Allen, is also participating, cooking for an Autumn Dinner Party on Saturday morning. Clodagh McKenna, Eunice Power (Powersfield House), Neven Maguire, Sheila Kelly (Bord Bía), Nick Price (Nick's Warehouse in Belfast) and Richard Corrigan are the other chefs taking part. There are also a selection of different food tours, taking in East Cork, Carlow, Kilkenny, Waterford, Tipperary and Wexford on Saturday morning (the itineraries are all here) – I'm sure the Husband, with his new-found interest in brewing, would love the opportunity to join the Carlow tour and see around the Carlow Brewing Company!

Of course, all this is taking place – and I'm going to be working in Mallow. Only one person from URRU can attend and my boss definitely has first dibs. I'm heading off to Waterford after work on Saturday, however, so I can be there bright and early for the mother of all Farmers' Markets, which will take place on John Roberts Square from 11am to 3pm.

There is more information below from Slow Food Ireland on Terra Madre Ireland and the website is at terramadreireland.com

Continue reading "Terra Madre Ireland in Waterford this weekend" »

RTÉ Cork had one of the stands at the Mallow Food Festival, handing out flyers and application forms for a new Irish food show called Recipe for Success. During the six-part series, home cooks will compete to see their recipe go into supermarket production. Could be interesting! You can see the flyer here and more information, along with an application form, is available on the RTÉ website.

Glorious sunshine, lots of people (especially before the match kicked off) and stalls well-laden with a large variety of good food meant success all the way for yesterday's Mallow Food Festival. URRU had a stall there so the Mallow Girl and I were kept busy, filling and selling pottles (note use of Kiwi term!) of URRU nibbles – paper cups filled with slices of Gubbeen chorizo, salami, chunks of their extra mature and oak smoked Gubbeen cheese, topped with a Gubbeen cheese biscuits. We were also selling a selection of afternoon cakes – lemon drizzle, flourless chocolate and almond and carrot loaf cakes – from Richard Graham-Leigh who, with his wife, Jane, supplies URRU with all variety of tarts, café bars, cookies and cakes. All of the cakes were pre-wrapped, fortunately, as the wasps were also attending in force and the Natural Foods Bakery next to us were inundated by black and yellow-striped fans of their sweet offerings.

Being so busy – hence no photos! – I didn't get much of a chance to look around until much of the food was gone but at least I managed a coffee from John Gowan's Cork Coffee Roasters, a selection of apple juices, crisp crunchy eating apples and chunky cookers from Philip across at the Little Irish Apple Company, and a few seed-laden pitta breads from the Natural Foods Bakery. Fellow organisers Essink and Lucey Butchers looked to be doing a great trade in lunches, cakes and vegetables, Arun was kept very busy at the Green Saffron stand and our usual Mallow Farmers' Market traders were happily selling out of their smoked fish, cheese, pots of herbs and organic vegetables. It was great to meet Elke from the Dine and Wine Club and fortunately she called by to say hello at a time when we had a little lull so I had a few minutes to talk to her.

Now, back to normal life in URRU!

Willie Healy, owner of URRU Mallow and one of the organisers of the Mallow Food Festival, was on RTÉ Radio 1's Mooney Show today, talking about the festival, farmers' markets and local food. You can listen to it here – it's the programme from Wednesday 27 August – and Willie is 46 minutes, 50 seconds in to the recording.

The pressure is on – only four days to go to this year's Mallow Food Festival – and we're hoping for sunshine! Last year, it was a glorious day, apparently, amidst the damp gloom that was the summer of 2007 (not very different at all from summer 2008) and the kids are due back to school so the weather is bound to perk up. The event takes place on the main street in Mallow on this Sunday, 31 August, from 12pm to 3.30pm and it's looking like we're getting at least 50 stalls to take place this year. Unfortunately, the fact that URRU will have a stall this year means that my purchasing power will be necessarily limited so I'll have to send the Husband and the Cambridge Couple off on many buying trips. Now, we'll just have to keep our fingers crossed for good weather...

We didn't have very many new potatoes this year so those that made it into the pot were treated like gold. We planted them, as normal, on 17 March – the traditional time in Ireland for planting the spuds, as far as I know, especially when they're earlies – but the weather was nasty after that so I think more than a few simply rotted in the ground. Between that, the terrible summer, the death of our cat and subsequent rise in the bunny population (we must not have been eating enough Rabbit Stew) it hasn't been an entirely successful summer in the garden. At least we've the hens to keep us fed and entertained, although when the weather was absolutely appalling there, last month, they seemed to go through a bit of a depression, egg laying dropping to just one per day. Fortunately they're now back up to a three-a-day average – making a lovely accompaniment to the few potatoes that we managed to salvage.

Supper ideas last night started with the potatoes and eggs, then I discovered a chunk of Gubbeen chorizo lurking in the fridge door so I went off on a warm salad direction. Unfortunately, my timing of the poached eggs did not coincide with the Husband's readiness for dinner so they're a little overdone, unlike Sarah's fantastic-looking ones. The measurements I give for the olive oil and sherry vinegar are very approximate – toss the salad, taste and see if you need any extra. A lot depends on the amount of flavoursome fat that your chorizo gives off as it fries.

Continue reading "Summer salads for colder days: Warm Potato and Chorizo Salad with Poached Eggs" »

When I get time to surf the net – not so often these days with freelancing and URRU keeping me busy – I love to go through my list of favourite food bloggers and magazines, reading their entries, picking up tips for things to try, places to visit and recipes to make. I have a list of recipes continually on the go, an odd assortment of things that I’ve picked up in my internet wanderings – Olive Oil Cookies from Mark Bittman in The New York Times, Lemon Potatoes from Organically Cooked, Salt-Kissed Buttermilk Cake from 101 Cookbooks, Chow’s Salted Caramel Frosting, Baked Celeriac with Rosemary, Parmesan & Marsala from Taste – all of which are still on my "must try" list.

Val's recipe for Oatmeal Muffins was on that list for a while but, after several successful Sunday morning muffin bakes for weekend guests, it has made the leap to the "must keep" category. They only take a few minutes to throw together, are ready in minutes, and, as Val says, are perfect for freezing. Visitors are hugely impressed (make sure they volunteer to do the washing up afterwards!) and, most importantly of all, the muffins taste great when buttered while still warm, maybe with a smidgen of Raspberry Jam from Mallow Irish Country Market on the side or, if you're really lucky, some of my mother's Blackcurrant Jam. For the sake of speed and efficiency in the mornings, I've stuck to Val's cup measurements, apart from the butter and brown sugar, which I find easier in ounces.

Continue reading "Val's Oatmeal Muffins" »

I'm the Sourdough aficionado, using natural yeasts to raise my bread. Now – and it's been brewing for a while (pun very definitely intended) – the Husband is just after taking delivery of his own yeasts as he prepares to embark on a long-discussed, thought-over and well-researched foray into the world of making beer at home.

After we were both spoiled for choice with microbrewery beers in NZ, it's become more and more difficult to drink the rubbish that you can find on tap in most Irish pubs (with an honorary exception for Beamish, of course, and both the Franciscan Well Brewery and Bierhaus in Cork). So, this could be a whole new world. And, finally, there's some good reason for the dozens of empty beer bottles stored in the spare room!

If you're in the Mallow vicinity tomorrow, Saturday 23 August, call in to URRU as Arun Kapil of Green Saffron will be in store between 11am and 3pm, talking about his range of fresh, intensely flavoured spice blends and Indian ingredients, offering plenty of tips and tricks for making the most of them.

After we especially enjoyed the Lamb Rogan Josh at his Ballyvolane banquet, I very kindly (not at all thinking of myself!) gave the Husband the Rogan Josh blend as one of his birthday presents. The sachet scented the rest of the presents and wafted spice around the kitchen until he eventually gave in and cooked it for the night the International Aid Worker came to visit. It was fabulous and there might even be a repeat performance next weekend when a couple of the English Engineers come to visit. The Garam Masala, rose petals and all, is also fantastic and comes with a recipe for Arun's very morish Garam Masala Cookies that was tried out to great effect this week by my German Colleague.

Don't forget – while Arun is talking about spices in store, we also have the Mallow Farmers' Market taking place in the courtyard outside URRU from 10.30am to 1pm.

When the Husband and I stayed at Gort-Na-Nain in May, I admired Ultan and Lucy's recently built outdoor wood-fired oven. A sturdy stone-clad structure that they can use to bake pizza and bread, it sits in a magnificent location, on the then-sunny patio outside their kitchen, looking across the hills to the sparkling blue sea. My interest piqued, they put me in contact with the builder, Henrik Lepel, and I asked him to keep me updated about any future breadoven building workshops.

On one of my rare weekends that actually incorporated both Saturday and Sunday (two so far, this year!) Henrik happened to be holding a workshop at the Mallow Racecourse, building an oven for the Garden Fair. So, with visions of savoury pizzas and fresh-baked breads dancing in my head, I promptly signed up. Alas, torrential rain on the Saturday put an end to that day's workshop but Henrik persevered and the following day saw a small group of be-wellied participants gather to build under a tarpaulin at the racecourse. Despite even more rain, that evening we had completed all three layers over the wet newspaper-covered domed sand mould that Henrik had shaped the previous day. The following week it was successfully used to cook the most delicious pizzas at the Garden Festival – I was working in town but several of my customers gave me great reports on how well the oven was working.

Henrik's next workshop will be taking place at Kealkil, near Bantry in West Cork over the weekend of 23-24 of August, is limited to eight participants and is priced at €120 per person, including lunch. For more information and for bookings, contact Henrik at 086 8838400 or email kirdnehl@hotmail.com. As for me, I still have good intentions and am on a search for some subsoil to build my own oven. I just need someone to do some digging for me!

You can see some pictures of one of the first breadovens that Henrik built on Irish Allotments.

Despite all the recent rain and bad weather, the range of vegetables available at the Mallow Farmers' Market continues to expand. As well as his fantastic salad leaves, which I eat for lunch every day, Morris from Gairdín Eden has been selling huge bunches of rhubarb and carrots. I also picked up some parsnips this week, along with a jar of West Cork Eden Honey – perfect for Honey Flapjacks, if I can save some back from the Husband and his toast!

My favourite thing to do with the smallest, sweetest carrots after I get them home on Saturday evening is to take them all off the bunch, scrub them well and eat them for dinner with a big bowl of homemade hummus. With a good chunk of one of Gudrun Shinnick's cheeses - herbed St Bridget, aged St Gall, spicy Cais Dubh - or some of the other cheeses that she sells on her stall (the soft Knockalara sheep's cheese has been very popular around here) it's a perfectly easy supper to eat outside in the sunshine (if and when that happens).

We've been waiting for the organic vegetables from Patrick Frankel, a new producer in Donneraile, and they started arriving in the last few weeks. On Saturday, his stall was manned by a helpful French girl, selling herbs, spring onions, yellow and green courgettes, an assortment of tomatoes, new potatoes, peas and, much to my delight, mangetout. When I shop for vegetables and fruit, I try to buy as locally as possible – first Ireland, then Europe, then I don't bother. Despite me inadvertently leaving the mangetout in work over the weekend, they've already made it into a large tub of Nigella's Sesame Peanut Noodles as well as a Potato Salad with Chorizo and Mangetout. The only thing I missed this week was one of my market staples, the smoked trout from Geraldine Bass of Old Millbank Smokehouse. I use it in warm and cold salads with pasta, potatoes or couscous, in risottos and oven bakes, panfried with spiced garlic butter and mashed into fish pâté. I just might have to take a trip to Friday evening's Killavullen Farmers' Market at the Nano Nagle Centre and see if she's there.

The next Mallow Farmers' Market will take place in the courtyard outside URRU from 10.30am to 1pm on Saturday 23 August.

After writing about Irish success in the Great Taste Awards last week (I was also delighted to hear that my favourite Ummera smoked chicken took a Gold award), I was interested to receive this press release (see below) about the just-launched Irish Food Awards.

Awards will be given in a total of 17 categories, including preserves/conserves, breads, chocolate, ice cream, seafood and cheeses. To be eligible, all foods entered must be commercially available in at least three outlets and be made in either Northern or Southern Ireland by companies registered in this country. The awards will take place at the Dingle Peninsula Food and Wine Festival, on the weekend of 3rd to 5th October – another good excuse to head into Kerry for a couple of days! More information is available in the press release below and at www.irishfoodawards.com.

Continue reading "Launch of new Irish Food Awards" »

When I was a little girl, one day during our summer holidays in Youghal, I caught sight of a Ladybird book called Learnabout...Cooking. I remember wanting to ask my mother to buy it for me but she had already left the shop. Fortunately, her youngest sister, at that stage still unmarried and able to come on our extended three-generation two-week holidays by the sea, whisked it off to the cash desk and I walked proudly home with my first cookery book under my arm.

Now my copy, one book amongst hundreds, is tattered and food-stained. Chocolate Mousse was a particular favourite for years, I remember, as was the Lemon Surprise Pudding. I never really got to grips with the Scotch Eggs, though, and Cheese Baked Potatoes – because of my fixation against spuds – were totally out but I definitely remember assembling that classic of the Seventies, Cheese and Pineapple Hedgehog, with tinned pineapple and rubbery, orange cheddar. One recipe that I have returned to over and over again - and which, at this stage, doesn't even resemble the original – is Flapjacks.

I've tried many other recipes for Flapjacks in the past – these Chocolate Flapjacks are undoubtedly fantastic – but this is the one I'm currently happiest with and make most often. It can be made as simple or as complex as you like. Some days I just make simple Honey Flapjacks, as in the picture, leaving out all the nuts, seeds and dried fruit, and substituting honey for the golden syrup. Other times it depends on what's on my baking trolley. I've tried a mixture of jumbo and regular oatmeal sometimes and varied the type of of sugar (light and dark brown sugars, raw sugar, demerera) I use. The first four ingredients are necessary: the rest can be played around with. Almonds and cranberries, cashews and dried pineapple are all combinations I've tried in the past but I keep coming back to the hazelnut and apricot variation. Have fun with it – as long as you keep the proportions the same, the recipe is endlessly forgiving.

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With the 2008 Olympic opening ceremony taking place today, enigmatic China is at the center of attention. Fuchsia Dunlop's Shark's Fin and Sichuan Pepper uses food and cooking to successfully delve beneath the surface.

Chef and cookbook author Fuchsia Dunlop's memoir of her time cooking and eating in China is an enthralling read. In 1994, at a time when China was still very closed off from the outside world, this young Englishwoman moved to Chengdu, in the Sichuan province. Ostensibly, Fuchsia was there to study the Chinese policy on ethnic minorities but food was a strong motivating factor – as she filled out her application form, it was with the Chinese sugarplums of chilli bean sauce, Sichuan pepper and frilly pig's kidneys dancing in her head. Despite Fuchsia's early disorientation, she plunged into life in Chengdu, learning the language and finding her way through the bold and interesting flavours of Sichuan food. Before long, she was taking lessons at the Sichuan Institute of Higher Cuisine and was subsequently invited to join a three-month professional chef's training course – an unprecedented invitation for a Westerner.

Shark's Fin... traces Fuchsia's passionate love affair with Chinese food, in all its tastes and textures, colours and complexity. As she recounts the details of her training, after which she wrote her award-winning Sichuan Cookery book, she also travels the country, experiencing different foods and cultures. For many in the West, China – and Chinese food – is often just an amorphous mass, all of one piece, but Fuchsia brings the different regions of China into sharp relief, although this reader could have done with a slightly more detailed map. She eats absolutely everything (poisonous snake and hairy crab, two of the “three headed” feast of Yangzhou and pig's brains), discusses the Chinese love of MSG (“the cook's cocaine”), investigates the region where Sichuan pepper comes from and also notes that Ferran Adrià gave credit to Chinese gastronomy for forging a path that is now being exploited in his El Bulli restaurant in Spain, as he plays – in a very Chinese way – with “form and mouthfeel.”

To write her second book, Revolutionary Chinese Cookbook, Fuchsia lived in Hunan during the fear and paranoia of the SARS virus, a long way from her relaxed days in Sichuan. From this point onwards, the tone of Shark's Fin... becomes similarly dark, as she struggles with her own identity – Chinese or British? – and starts to lose her omnivorous appetite, wondering if she should become vegetarian. Happily, an encounter with a stray caterpillar on a plate of vegetables at home in Oxford helped her to clarify her thinking.

With interest in China at an all-time high for the Olympics, Shark's Fin and Sichuan Pepper is an insight into the country and the people, as well as its food. And it certainly has inspired me – with the Husband's Sister and Brother-in-Law currently studying in Xinjiang province, a trip over there may be on the cards at some stage in the not-so-distant future.

Congratulations to Greatfood.ie, who won three gongs at the recent Great Taste Awards in London with their chutneys and relishes. These awards are considered to be the Oscars of the foodie world, with 2021 producers entering almost 4800 products this year to be judged in a wide variety of categories.

The products – Hot Red Pepper Jam, Walnut and Fig Preserve, Wild Cranberry and Apple Relish – are made with Monaghan-based En-Place Foods, who also picked up an award for their for their Castleleslie Balsamic and Apple Reduction (haven't tasted this – yet – but you have to try their Sherry and Fig Balsamic Reduction drizzled on roast duck or trickled over a warm goat's cheese salad).

I'm a particular fan of the Wild Cranberry and Apple Relish, several jars of which we devoured around Christmas while on a black pudding bender. A special pack of the award-winning preserves are available as a special pack from Greatfood2buy.com and, while you're there, you can also pick up a bottle of the Balsamic and Apple Reduction. Make sure you check out my favourite Argan oil and their dinky little tins of spices as well.

What do you read while travelling in France? A stack of novels, a French phrase book – and Elizabeth David's French Provincial Cooking. My holidays normally involve dragging at least one cookbook of the country about with me, often with a relevant Lonely Planet World Food guide. World Food France is out of print, unfortunately, but I grabbed the last copy of the ED book at work as I ran out the door on the last day.

Although we didn't push ourselves to travel too far, there were still hours spent in the Astra, driving to and from the boat at Roscoff, various campsites and a side-trip to St-Emilion, all made much more manageable by ED's entertainingly opinionated and self-assured writing. While the Husband and the Teacher drove and navigated, I read about the cooking of various regions, perused lists of French terminology for techniques and ingredients and inspired a pre-late-lunch appetite by poring over descriptions of Oeufs sur la Plat, Blettes à la Crème and Pommes au Beurre.

Back home now, but ED's writing has lost none of its inspiration. The vegetables and eggs chapters, especially, have lots of ideas to play around with: I've cooked her Endives au Beurre since I came home and La Pipérade was especially good to feed the boys while camping. I still have to work my way through the last part of the book, the fish section is particularly appealing at the moment as I've gotten some fantastic pollard from my fishing-loving Kildorrery Cousin. If you're travelling to France at any stage – or if you just want to evoke the food of the countryside - French Provincial Cooking is the book for you.

For me, few trips abroad are complete without some kind of local food or kitchen accessory purchase, although flying does tend to put the skids on most shopping. Getting the ferry to France this year meant that life was very much easier when looking at things to bring home. The Husband went over with the intention of picking up some equipment for his nascent home-brewing career, giving me a chance to look round kitchen equipment with an eye to actually being able to bring something home. Mr Bricolage proved to be the perfect place for us both. He picked up a 40 liter plastic keg and a variety of other beer-making paraphernalia; while I was hemming and hawing over a stoneware vinaigrier, he grabbed it for me and legged it to the cash desk. A vinaigrier is a vinegar maker, an urn-shaped pot with a wide, lidded mouth to slosh in your left-over wine and a little tap to let you pour off the resulting vinegar. Mine also came with the cutest little stool, I presume to allow more air circulation.

There's lots of information out there on the web about making vinegar from wine and the whole mysterious business of a “vinegar mother”. As with sourdough starter, you can buy the mother but I think I might just see what time does to my collection of wine dregs. Some of the best information that I've found is on the Gang of Pour website. I'll let you know how I get on!

If you're a farmers' market fan and in the Clonakilty vicinity next Friday, 8 August, watch out for the launch of the town's market at Spiller's Lane Car Park (by the Credit Union).

The market kicks off at 8.30am and Darina Allen will be doing the official opening honours at 12.30pm. According to the Friends of Clonakilty Market, "the very finest local and seasonal foods will be available, including organic vegetables, fresh fish, locally baked breads, rashers and sausages, olives, dips, sun-dried tomatoes, jams, chutneys, sushi, farmhouse cheeses, freshly brewed coffee and much more..."