Bibliocook: All About Food

My email has been acting up recently so it's taken me a while to realise that I actually have a couple of real messages amongst all the ridiculous spam that crams up my inbox. One of the more interesting mails was from the recently opened and wonderfully named Ya-Ya House of Excellent Teas (see below) which sounds well worth checking out if you're in Christchurch. For those in search of spicy hot chocolate in Dublin, Fallon & Byrne do a too-mild version which is worth trying out but it can't beat the stuff you make at home yourself and sip by the fire on a cold, dark autumn's night...

Hi Caroline,
I'm aware that your post about chocolate & chilli on www.bibliocook.com is now more than a year old, but I recently remembered reading it a long time ago. I remembered reading about someone (you) here in Christchurch being interested in hot chocolates. We just opened Ya-Ya House of Excellent Teas last month in the Poplar Street/Cotters Lane area (just a block away from the mentioned Aji) and hot chocolate with chilli is on our menu as an alternative to tea. We moved here from Europe last year and were desperate in our search for a good hot chocolate. It was impossible to find any place that served a good hot chocolate, so we decided to do it ourselves.
Jo

Whether you're in Dublin or Christchurch, New Zealand this weekend, there are plenty of Slow Food-organised events taking place. The Christchurch branch have their second "how to survive when ship-wrecked" morning by the sea taking place on Saturday 23 September. Led by Slow Food member, amateur botanist, professional fishing guide and enthusiastic forager Peter Langlands, participants will spend the morning gathering seaweeds, shellfish, crustaceans and fish from Canterbury's shoreline at Port Levy. Information on species identification, harvesting and cooking techniques will be combined with some cautionary notes. Car pooling will take place from the CPIT car park at 9:30am. You can email Convivium Leader Bill Bryce for directions and hopefully you'll avoid what happened to me last year - a frustrating hour spent waiting in the wrong CPIT car park!

Also in Christchurch, on Sunday 24 September, The Bicycle Thief restaurant will host a family-style meal cooked by chef Nik Mavromatis to raise money for Nik to attend the Slow Food Terra Madre conference and Salone del Gusto in Turin in October. The dinner will be at 6pm on the Sunday of September 24th and the cost will be $70 per person for five courses, including wine. I've eaten Nik's fantastic food at the café in the Mediterranean Food Company and he was the inspirational teacher for classes I attended there on Tapas and pasta-making. I can tell you where I'd be on Sunday night, were I in New Zealand, especially with a menu like this...

Canapes and cocktails at 6pm, followed by:
Bagna Cauda with witloof, cardoons, baby vegetables and organic rye
bread. Wine - Cracroft Chase Pinot Gris 2005
Trio of shared pasta dishes: Gorgonzola Gnocchi, Buckwheat Pasta with
Salmon Roe and Crème Fraiche, Butternut Pumpkin and Sage Ravioli. Wine - San Silvestre 2003 Barbera D'Alba
Roast Porchetta with Cavolo Nero and Puy Lentils. Wine - Pegasus Bay 2004 Pinot Noir
Masticha-infused Rice Pudding with Rhubarb Compote. Wine - Lombardo Sicilian Moscato NV

On this side of the world, at Sunday's Farmleigh Food Market in Phoenix Park the Irish Raw Cow's Milk Cheese Presidium will launch a new label which will be used by the producers to designate cheese made from high quality raw Irish milk. The cheesemakers will be there to give tastings and talk about their cheese and Kevin Sheridan, one of the co-ordinators of the Presidia, will be giving a talk at 3pm on Irish raw cow's milk cheeses as a part of the Farmleigh culinary month. Kevin, of Sheridan's Cheesemongers, is passionate - some might say evangelical - about good cheese and about Irish raw milk cheese in particular. At a recent Slow Food Dublin evening he talked us through samples of Drumlin, Cooleeney Raw, Mount Callan Cheddar and the stunning Bellingham Blue.

The cheeses which are a part of the Irish Raw Cow's Milk Cheese Presidium are:
- Drumlin made by Silke Cropp in Cavan
- Cooleeney Raw made by Breda Maher in Tipperary
- Mount Callan Cheddar made by Lucy Hayes in Co Clare
- Dilliskus made by Maja Bindler in Dingle, Co Kerry
- Bellingham Blue made by Peter Thomas in Co Louth
- St Gall made by Frank and Gudrun Shinnick in Co Cork
- Durrus made by Jeffa Gill in Co Cork
More information on the Irish Raw Cow's Milk Cheese Presidium is online here and the Cáis (Irish Farmhouse Cheesemakers Association) website is at www.irishcheese.ie

Also watch out, the following weekend, for the Temple Bar Food Market's 10th Birthday Party on Saturday 30 September with talks and demonstrations in Meeting House Square and at the Cultivate Centre at SS Michael & John's Church.

If you're down in West Cork this weekend, or can make your way there, the Taste of West Cork Food Festival started in Skibbereen last night with a dinner which featured local products like Gubeen Bacon, Union Hall Smoked Salmon, Gallan Cream Cheese, Beara Preserves and Ó Conaill Chocolates.

Other events that will take place include a field trip to Gubbeen Farm, guided by cheesemaker extraordinaire Giana Ferguson; Saturday's Mystery Dine Out Night - you buy a ticket and are told where you're having dinner; and the Wild and Organic lunch at Kalbo's Bistro. And, most important of all, don't miss talented young Irish artist Neva Elliott serving tea and cakes at the Archiving Skibbereen Studio in the West Cork Arts Centre!

For some recipes using products from West Cork - marketed under the Fuchisa Brand - get your hands on 2004 Collins Press publication, A Taste of West Cork.

Last weekend saw the Boyfriend and myself travel down to my parents' place in North Cork. As a result of the warm, damp weather over the past few weeks, I have received constant reports from my mother about the abundance of mushrooms so, with a Beef and Guinness casserole bubbling away in the oven, we off headed for a pre-dinner ramble down the fields with our eyes firmly fixed on the ground.

A few minutes in the Lios field - so named because of the ancient, fenced-off ringfort down in the hollow - and we hit the jackpot. With whoops of delight, we bent again and again to pluck the scatterings of pink-gilled little cuppeens, just peeping through the ground, and the older, larger platter mushrooms. Trekking up and down the field, we quickly gathered a generous bag of fungi. My family, so completely used to picking a few handfuls whenever they walk down to the cattle, turned their noses up at the older mushrooms but, after being peeled and checked for worms, were thrown into the pot in the oven to further enrich the Guinness gravy.

Breakfast was simply the left-over mushrooms fried in butter, served up on slices of toasted Brown Soda Bread. Another trip down the fields before lunch and a further haul make me revisit Denis Cotter's recipe for Mushrooms in Milk that I had made (unseasonably) earlier this year with cultivated Portobello mushrooms. It's a very different dish when made with wild field mushrooms which, although they may not be as meaty or easily obtainable, more than make up for that with their intense flavour.

For anyone interested in doing a tutored mushroom hunt, mushroomstuff.com is running one in Avondale House, Co Wicklow on Saturday 7 October, there's a Ballymaloe Cookery School one on Saturday 14 October or you can take part in Longueville House Hotel's mushroom hunt on Sundays 8 and 15 October. Slow Food Ireland's Fingal Convivium run their annual mushroom hunt on Sunday 22 October in the grounds of Howth Castleand the Four Rivers Convivium also have a Foraging for Wild Food event, which surely includes mushrooms, at Lavistown House on the 23 September.

Continue reading "Field mushroom hunting" »

I'm not a fan of RTÉ's Late Late Show but there was a debate about Irish food on last week's programme which you can watch from this page. An aggressive and rambling Richard Corrigan doesn't come off very well but Derek Davis manages to defuse the situation, while still managing to get his points about Irish food - and they're not complimentary - across.

For all those Rachel Allen fans out there - and I know that there are lots of you! - she returns to RTÉ One next week with a new television series called Rachel's Favourite Food at Home. A hardback cookbook to accompany the series is published by HarperCollins and it's difficult to walk into any Irish bookshop at the moment without tripping over a stack of them!

The show starts at 7.30pm on Wednesday 13 September and here's the blurb on the book from the HarperCollins site:

Rachel's Favourite Food at Home draws on international influences, classic regional fare and good old family favourites to provide creative options for every occasion, whether planning a simple family meal, hosting a festive dinner for the entire clan, squeezing in a sneaky romantic meal for two, heading out for a glorious picnic, chilling out on the sofa with your favourite comfort food, or spending time baking muffins with the kids.

I was in the heart of County Wicklow yesterday, listening as the Irish branch of Euro-toques, a European-wide community of cooks and chefs, debated the idea of Ireland as a culinary destination. Held at the lovely Brooklodge Hotel in Macreddin Village, this was Euro-toques Ireland's fifth National Food Forum. Chaired by Peter Ward of Country Choice delicatessen in Nenagh, the panel consisted of Colman Andrews, former editor-in-chief of US food magazine, Saveur; John McKenna, the man behind the Bridgestone Guides; artisan butcher, market trader and sausage-maker extraordinaire Ed Hicks; editor of The Dubliner, Trevor White; and John Mulcahy of Failte Ireland, who provide training and development services for the tourism and hospitality industry.

Far more questions were raised than could be answered or even properly debated over the course of the brief two-and-a-half-hour gathering, including the enormous gulf between perceptions of foodie Ireland and the reality. John McKenna spoke passionately about the facsimile Irish experience currently been offered to guests in hotels and restaurants throughout the country and emphasised the fact that a food culture would only develop as good people do good things individually and at their own pace. The need to encourage Irish people to eat well was also stated by Trevor White, and Ed Hicks encouraged local authorities to demonstrate an intelligent appreciation of guidelines towards the market traders that have such an important role to play in local communities and in enriching visitors' experiences of Ireland.

As the panel discussion ended, only to be continued on an individual basis throughout the afternoon, a food fair was in full swing outside throughout the showers and sunshine with many of the usual suspects - apple juice, cheese, organic vegetables - joined by less familiar Irish blueberries and Boozeberries, nettle preserve from Bluebell Organic Farm and Meadowsweet Apiaries' beeswax and honey lip balm. Although the day ended very pleasantly with a thoroughly enjoyable organic and wild food barbeque in the idyllic grounds of Brooklodge, it now remains to be seen what - if anything - emerges from yesterday's discussions.

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