July 2008 Archives

While we were away in France, we were lucky enough to have my Naas Cousin come to house- and chicken-sit for a few days. Not only did she take extraordinarily good care of the place and livestock, she also left us a gift of the cutest pair of dozy bear eggcups. Boiled eggs will simply never be the same again with this duo to hold them upright. Thanks Elaine!

While I was away in France, this year's Mallow Food Festival was launched. Last year's Festival was very successful – I've been hearing about it from my customers all year! - and this year it will be taking place on Sunday 31 August. The organisers, who are William Healy (URRU), Claire Ryan (Essink restaurant) and Ian Lucey (Lucey's Butchers), are aiming to make the event even bigger and better, showcasing at least sixty of the leading food producers in the area.

The 2008 Mallow Food Festival will take place on Mallow's main street from 12 noon to 3.30pm on Sunday 31 August. More information is available from William Healy, URRU Culinary Store, Bank Place, Davis Street, Mallow, Co Cork. Tel/Fax: 022 53192

Morning Ireland hype the recession – again – with a focus on the restaurant industry.

Restaurants bitten by credit crunch
Eleanor Burnhill reports that the rapid pace of opening restaurants has slowed

1 saucepan + 1 gas burner + 1 vegetarian + 2 omnivores (1 very much on the carni- side of omnivore) = very simple one-pot cooking in the campsite at night. It's not difficult to do with a small store of non-perishable picnic basket perennials – olive oil, harissa paste, sherry vinegar, grainy mustard, Maldon salt and the tiniest pepper grinder – and a few purchases from the local market and shops, including garlic and onions, sun-warmed tomatoes, the sweetest of sweet peppers, a selection of cheese, pâté and salami (to keep the meat-lovers happy), les oeufs biologique (organic eggs) and a few tins of haricot beans and lentils.

All suppers started with chopped onions softening in the pan, the Husband balancing and stirring, while I chopped garlic to cook next and decided what was on the menu tonight. Sometimes it was a tomato and lentil stew, other nights we had creamy haricot beans with crème fraîche, Pipérade (scrambled eggs in a stew of peppers and tomatoes) or a tomato bean dish, sprinkled with crumbled feta. We also ate salads of parsley-flecked Tabouleh, laden with chopped tomatoes and diced cucumber; plates of sliced tomatoes and mozzarella with fleur de sel; bunches of radishes, dabbed with butter and sprinked with flakes of Maldon salt; and raw milk Camembert, smeared on ragged chunks of baguette.

There was nothing that took longer than 15 minutes to prepare while hunkered down on our picnic rug in the late evening sunshine, still salted from an afternoon on the beach, drinking our latest bottle of vin de pays. Vegetables that had never encountered a fridge tasted sweeter than normal, especially after they spent an afternoon under canvas, awaiting my knife. But then, it's the holidays – everything tastes magical when eaten in good company with the flavour of the outdoors, spiced with the relish of ridiculously cheap wine and mopped up with crusty bread from the local boulanger. It's a far cry from a rainy Monday in North Cork.

It will be quiet around here this week as I have abandoned the Irish summer for some time soaking up the French sun with the Husband, the Teacher and the Tax Advisor. We have taken ourselves camping in the Vendée and Charente-Maritime regions on the Atlantic Coast for ten days, staying in small campsites and spending plenty of time investigating brioche and pain au chocolate, moules, abricots, glaces and galettes, along with cheese and wine of every description. Time now, perhaps, for another café au lait in the sunshine before we hit the beach. I can't cope with the French keyboard any longer!

With lighter, warmer mornings (theoretically, at least), porridge is long gone from the mornings and this granola-style muesli is a big favourite in our house. I got the recipe from the Husband's mother while we were in New Zealand in January. She's been working with people who have ME and Chronic Fatigue Syndrome and this (now slightly altered!) was on one of the recipe sheets that she hands out.

It's easy to mix a big batch - just make sure that you have a couple of baking trays large enough to cook it in your oven - and don't forget it. It's all too easy to leave it burn and then it gets very bitter. After it has thoroughly cooled down, I keep it in a large kilner jar, often mixing it half-and-half with plain oats at breakfast time. It is also really good served with fresh fruit and yoghurt.

If you're in the Mallow area next week, we're hosting a week of Conversations on a Farmers' Market in URRU at 11am each morning. Several of the producers from the Mallow Farmers' Market are going to be talking about how they make their wares - smoked fish and cheese, salad leaves and organic vegetables - and yours truly will also be participating next Wednesday morning (16 July), talking about sourdough bread and how to make your own starter, with my Ballymaloe one as an active example! There's more information below, along with links to a couple of sites that also have information on the Conversations.

Irish Allotments: Forthcoming events at URRU, Mallow
Bridgestone Blog: Do Not Miss This!
Dine & Wine Club Cork: Farmer's Talk

...eggs a day. That's a dozen every three days, 28 in a week and 124 in a calendar month - and that's a hell of a lot of eggs to be used up! Redistribution has already started. If you're nearby and needing some free range eggs, just let me know.

During the summer, the Killavullen Farmers' Market moves to Friday nights for a time, which is useful for me going home from work, and I was delighted to pick up a couple of just-picked globe artichokes there last week from the Nano Nagle stall. The first time I ever encountered them in real life - having pored over how-to-eat pictures in my mother's cordon bleu cookbook as a child - was when I was (briefly) an au pair in Chamonix and they are a rare treat.

We ate them during the week, the stalks sliced off to the base and the artichokes then simmered in salted water, under a side pate to keep them immersed, until the point of a knife penetrated the base easily. I melted some butter, added a squeeze of lemon and landed the drained artichokes on the table, leaves to be picked off one by one and dipped in the buttery lemon dressing before we used our teeth to scrape off the tender nub at the bottom. As the pile of discarded leaves grew bigger, we eventually got to the heart of the matter. Once the hairy choke was removed we could savour our long-deffered reward, the sweet artichoke heart. After mopping up the last of the dressing with a crust of bread, then mopping our fingers and faces, we contemplated the debris left behind and determined to buy even more at the next farmers' market. Or maybe we just need to start growing our own?

The Sweet Treats still continue, although I spend more time making rather than writing about them these days. Last week's offering was Butterscotch Almond Shortbread, which is like Tan Slice but not quite as buttery! I already got one request for the recipe, from the Teenage Workmate, so here it is. Next time, however, I think I might go for a slightly thicker shortbread base.

After the excitement of our first - albeit cracked - egg, three out of four of the chickens have been earning their keep. We're still not sure who's holding out, but most mornings, when we go out to the run to feed and water them, there are three eggs waiting in the nesting box. They're small - I'm using two instead of one at the moment - but perfectly formed and, I didn't expect this, have an incredible flavour. It must be all the Ballyvoddy slugs that the girls pick up on their wanders around the garden.

Mornings working from home are enlivened by frequent checks on the foursome as they free-range around our half-acre. We live alongside a busy road so would like to keep them towards the back of the property. That's not what they think as they make their way towards the front of the house where the best of slugs seem to live, judging by their determination to make it there. I've taken to moving the computer to an outside table so that I can keep an eye on them (and on the cat, watching carefully as they scratch about), until they get too naughty and I have to herd them down the length of the garden towards their home. They like to take the scenic route, through some of the less-mowed parts of the garden, and our travels are enlivened by my swearing as they lead me through yet another patch of hidden nettle stalks and my bare ankles suffer.

With a half-dozen eggs arriving in the kitchen every two days, I'm turning to my recipe books for more ideas and Michel Roux's Eggs has already proven itself invaluable. My small cast-iron pan is getting used for regular omelettes and a couple of eggs poached on a bed of spicy lentils was very successful. I'm looking forward to making mayonnaise this week and we've also baked a couple with blue cheese in the heart-shaped ramekins we got from the Sculptor last June. I remember my Nana making Lemon Curd when there were lots of eggs to spare so I'll have to dig out her recipe. Then, with whites left over, there'll have to be a Pavlova some day for tea. Who would have thought that having hens would be so much fun?!

Still trying to figure out this upgrade - paid work keeps getting in the way, unfortunately - but the comments are back working for me, finally, so feel free to let me know what you think about recent posts.

Published in The Irish Times Cork First supplement on Wednesday 2 July.

Get started early - farmers' markets wait for no tourist - at the busy Middleton Farmers' Market on Saturday morning, making time to pick up some artisan Arbutus bread, a selection of Frank Hederman's superlative smoked fish (make sure you try his smoked mussels), a bag of Ballycotton Kerr Pinks from Willie Scannall, some cooking tips and cupcakes at the Ballymaloe stall - and don't miss getting your hands on a slice of sinful chocolate cake from Frank Krawczyk, who specialises in the best home-cured salamis and fantastic rillettes.

Drive down to Shanagary to take a wander around the organic gardens at Ballymaloe Cookery School and admire the raw ingredients, including the free-range Gloucestershire Old Spot pigs, that the students get to practice on. If in need of a quick bite - or a little retail therapy - pay a visit to the Gallery Café at the nearby Stephen Pearce Gallery. After some zesty Lemon Tart from their array of sweet treats, make sure you stroll downstairs to EatWell, who stock a variety of fine foods, including an extensive selection of Green Saffron's Indian spice blends and chutneys.

Finish the day by driving just over the Waterford border, to the small seaside town of Ardmore. Book into the newly renovated Cliff House Hotel and prepare to be wowed by Dutch chef Martijn Kajuiter's imaginative cooking before falling asleep in one of the stylish, comfortable rooms at this boutique hideaway.

Middleton Farmers' Market. Web: www.midletonfarmersmarket.com
Ballymaloe Cookery School and Gardens, Shanagarry, Co Cork. Tel: 021 4646785. Web: www.cookingisfun.ie
The Gallery Café @ Stephen Pearce Gallery, Shanagarry, Co Cork. Tel: 021 4647970
EatWell, Stephen Pearce Gallery, Shanagarry, Co Cork. Tel: 021 4645927
The Cliff House Hotel, Ardmore, Co Waterford. Tel: 024 87800 www.thecliffhousehotel.com

Published in The Irish Times Cork First supplement on Wednesday 2 July.

Eat your heart out
With so many cafés and restaurants to choose from, deciding where to eat in Cork can be mind-boggling so we've chosen some of the best for you. Words by Caroline Hennessy.

BEST BREAKFASTS
Hardwood
Sunday morning, coming down: it's time for breakfast at the bright, airy Hardwood on Pope's Quay. Feast on French toast, with real maple syrup and smoked bacon, or be good and go for the healthy option - a colourful fresh fruit plate, with toasted pine nuts and yoghurt.
Try: the steak and eggs option, with all the trimmings, for those mornings after the night before
Hardwood, 31 Pope's Quay, Cork. 021 4551494 www.hardwood.ie

Liberty Grill
Come early if you don't want to have to wait for a table for breakfast at this attractively-designed American-style diner but it's worth getting up a few minutes earlier for a menu that makes a feature of Posh Toast and offers plenty of sides to add to your dish of choice.
Try: The Full American - a full-on feed of juice, scrambled or poached eggs on sourdough bread and an entire pot - oh joy! - of tea or coffee.
Liberty Grill, 32 Washington Street, Cork. 021 4271049 www.libertygrillcork.com

BEST COFFEE
Cork Coffee Roasters
For anyone looking for a decent caffeine fix, the Seattle-style Cork Coffee Roasters café will be your idea of heaven. Get an Americano to go or sit on a high stool by the window and contemplate the world passing by as you sip your latte with a flaky Pain au Chocolat. The perfect calm kick-off for a day zooming around Cork.
Try: The Rebel City Espresso blend and don't forget to buy a bag of freshly ground coffee to repeat the experience at home.
Cork Coffee Roasters, 2 Bridge Street, Cork. 087 7766322

Ó Conaill Chocolate
Ó Conaill's cute little shop offers some of the best coffee in town - but that's not the only reason for going there. Chocolatiers by trade, they stock a tempting array of handmade chocolates in a variety of flavours, bars in all shapes and sizes, hot chocolate kits, seasonal treats and the most amazing hot chocolate that you'll find in Cork.
Try: A dark cardamom - dark hot chocolate, infused with fresh cardamom and served, as are all their beverages, with a selection of wee chocolate buttons on the side.
Ó Conaill Chocolate, 16b French Church Street, Cork. 021 4373407

BEST HIGH-END RESTAURANTS
Café Paradiso
Dedicated to seasonal vegetables and local produce, Denis Cotter's cooking at Café Paradiso is the kind of food that deserves to be eaten in appreciative silence - at least for a few minutes, before you start exclaiming about the layers of flavour in your dish and exchanging forkfuls of food with your dining companions. The vegetarian restaurant that even confirmed meat-eaters love.
Try: Anything Denis does with local asparagus. You'll never eat imports from Peru again.
Café Paradiso, 16 Lancaster Quay, Cork. 021 4277939. www.cafeparadiso.ie

Jacques
Almost hidden away down a maze of side streets - yet never overlooked by Corkonians in search of some decent, honest-to-goodness cooking - Jacques is a full-blown Cork institution. Co-owners Jacque and Eithne Barry have built up their network of suppliers and producers over the last 25 years and it shows in their menu and - most importantly - on the plate.
Try: Instead of starters, go Spanish with a ½ bottle of Manzilla, with a selection of nuts and olives.
Jacques, 9 Phoenix St, Cork. 021 4277387 www.jacquesrestaurant.ie

BEST AFTER-WORK BITE TO EAT
An Crúibín
It's a Friday night and you're not ready to go home just yet. You'd like a drink and a quick bite to eat so you wander along to An Crúibín for a pint of Beamish or some wine from their very pleasant by-the-glass selection, take a seat at one of the large communal tables and take a look at the chalk board of Irish-style tapas (think Macroom Egg Tortilla and Mustard Mackerel) that changes daily. Before you know it, you're chatting to your neighbour, hooked on the buzz and there for the night.
Try: The eponymous crispy roasted pig's trotters. How can you not?
An Crúibín, 1 Union Quay, Cork. They don't seem to have a phone number yet.

BEST LUNCH ON THE RUN
The Sandwich Stall
An off-shoot of The Real Olive Company, The Sandwich Stall makes up an assortment of tempting rolls, wraps, salads and sandwiches every day for those who frequent the English Market. Perch on the narrow bench at the end with your lunch and a big mug of tea or just grab your food to go.
Try: Traditional Spiced Beef with horseradish dressing
The Sandwich Stall, The English Market, Cork. 021 4806500

Wildways
This is fast food the 21st Century way - delectable organic soups and sandwiches, prepared with thought and care, ready to fly out the door as fast as the customers arrive.
Try: Baked Ham and Cheese sandwich with Mediterranean tomato soup - summer flavours for the dullest day.
Wildways, 21 Princes Street, Cork. 021 4272199 www.wildways.net

BEST FOR KIDS
Eve Chocolates
It might look unpromising from outside, but Eve St Leger's little chocolate factory is heaven for chocolate lovers of any age. Tucked away in a commercial park near UCC, you'll find delectable truffles, golden crunch, fudge and the best of chocolate for home cooks.
Try: Eve's Meter of Chocolate. How long will it take you to eat your way through it?
Eve Chocolates, Flair Confectionery, 8 College Commercial Park, Magazine Road, Cork. 021 4347781 www.evechocolates.ie

Exchange Toffee Works
Handmade with love and care, the old fashioned sweets from Exchange Toffee Works are sold direct from the door to a discriminating public. Savour the smell outside before taking a step back in time for their bestsellling Clove Rock, peppermint Bullseyes and mouth-puckering Acid Drops.
Try: All of them!
Exchange Toffee Works, 37a Mulgrave Road, Cork. 021 4507791