January 2009 Archives

Cooking Lessons by Daisy Garnett

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Cooking LessonsDespite its title, this is not the kind of book that you'll pick up if you're really wanting to learn how to cook. Cooking Lessons could as easily be titled Life Lessons, the kind of things that you learn as you experience - in journalist Daisy Garnett's case - a few years spent working in New York, a series of disastrous boyfriends and thinking time sailing across the Atlantic en route to resuming life back in England.

The time spent on the boat is the the fulcrum of the book. Although she didn't think that she could cook, she was forced into spending her time, as the only non-sailor afloat, feeding the crew. It acts as a jumping off point for musings and recollections about her experiences cooking with friends and family. Nuggets of advice and recipes come from Daisy's mother, novelist Polly Devlin, Rose Grey of the River Café and Ballymaloe teacher Rory O'Connell.

Although slight, Daisy's warts and all account of her (mostly) unfulfilling relationships as told through the prism of food is both endearing and charming. And you'll pick up more than a few useful ideas and recipes on the way. One to curl up with on a miserable night.

Ó Conaill's and The Cookie Jar

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thecookiejar.jpgIn Cork today and during my inevitable trip to Ó Conaill's chocolate shop on French Church Street - I used to go for a dark cardamom all the time, now I've moved on to a ginger oil-infused dark chocolate, all the better to fend off the winter chill - I noticed that they have just started stocking Cate McCarthy's giant cookies.

The Cookie Jar is the name of her company and the trademark jars recently arrived on Ó Conaill's counter, packed with American-style cookies made from real ingredients. I met Cate last year at the Terra Madre Farmers' Market in Waterford and sampled quite a few of her delicious wares. Well worth a quick visit when you need your caffeine - or hot chocolate - fix accompanied by something sweet to munch on!

Ó Conaill Chocolate, 16b French Church Street, Cork. 021 4373407
The Cookie Jar, Graigue, Poulmucka, Clonmel, Co. Tipperary. 052 35448 www.thecookiejar.ie

A range for the cottage

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I've always loved old cast-iron kitchen ranges. My Grandad would always put the porridge on overnight in the warming oven of the old, age-darkened Aga at Oldcastletown. By morning it would be cooked creamy, although with such a thick skin that I couldn't stomach it. As a child I was a very picky eater. The Aga - it ran on solid fuel - also made the best toast. Grandad would supervise the making of this treat on a cold winter's evening as we came in hungry from school. There were two methods: the first was simply to place a thickly sliced piece of bread from the local shop directly onto the base of the hot oven where it turned brown in a matter of minutes. And then there were the evenings when we were allowed to get out the ancient toasting forks, open the front of the firebox and toast on the flame. Those were the times that Grandad's work- and age-toughened hands came into their own, holding the bread close enough so it toasted properly. Our softer little paws - and faces! - weren't quite up to enduring the heat.

Slatered with real butter and layered with homemade jam, chosen with care from the jam cupboard upstairs (blackcurrant normally, occasionally gooseberry and, on rare occasions, a jar of plum jam), it was a feast to be savoured. That old Aga was the heart of the house, the constantly-stoked workhorse that heated the water, the radiators and the enormous hotpress overhead, cooked everything from joints of meat to roasting tins full of apple tart and made the kitchen the place where everybody spent their time. It was kept going year-round - my memories of the small antique electic cooker in the corner actually ever being used are few and far between.

When we extended the kitchen in Brookville, my childhood home, I remember the excitment of getting our own Rayburn installed in the new space. I pored over the cookbook that came with that cooker and worked my way through many of the recipes, being especially enamoured of the warming oven for raising dough when I started making my own bread. My mother still cooks at home on an oil-fired Rayburn, which is much easier to manage than the old Aga. It doesn't quite have the same feeling, though.

Now, grown up and with a house - ok, a cottage - of my own, a range has long been on the list of would-like-to-haves. A phone call from my Rathkeale Aunt before Christmas changed all that: she had a friend who was throwing out her Stanley and would we like it? The offer serendipitusly coincided with our next project - we're in the middle of designing an extension to the cottage and this is the first time that we will actually have a place to put a range. After deciding that the extension will be now fashioned around a cooker, the Husband, my Dad and the Little Brother headed off to Rathkeale with a trailer and collected our new (second hand) Stanley, to sit in storage at my parents' house until we get its home built. I'm going to have to try making that porridge for myself...

Foodtalk: Garden

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crownprince_300.jpgSunday sees the last in the Foodtalk series with Garden being the theme of the final show. We travelled to Clonegal, Co Carlow to meet with Henry Stone of the Sha-Roe Bistro and then to Nohoval in Cork to talk to Ultan Walsh of Gort-Na-Nain Vegetarian Guesthouse and Organic Farm.

I stayed at Gort-Na-Nain back in May and was only too delighted to have an excuse to return and talk to Ultan at length about the vegetables that he grows (Denis Cotter of Café Paradiso is a big fan too - check out his last book, Wild Garlic, Gooseberries...and Me). There wasn't so much going on in the polytunnels at that stage in the year but I did get to admire Ultan's magnificant crop of Crown Prince squash, all sitting around on benches in one of his polytunnels, just seasoning in the dry before they get stored. I had a close encounter with them on New Year's Eve as well, when I was sitting next to a display of Crown Prince in the window of Café Paradiso. What else could I pick for my main course other than a squash gratin, which came with walnut and gingered kale, lemon-cumin cream and star anise-braised salsify.

The Sunday that we had lunch at the Sha-Roe Bistro proved to me that sometimes it's worth travelling a distance for food, although driving 2½ hours for a meal isn't something I wish to make a habit out of. In this case, however, it was more than justified. The Husband and I arrived first so we had plenty of time to relax beforehand in the elegant reception area and toast ourselves at the roaring fire. We were joined by the Producer, his father and girlfriend for a delicious lunch, made all the more memorable by the fact that we were seated at the chef's table, right next to the kitchen so we could watch Henry as he cooked. Every mouthful was a pleasure, with tastings being swapped around the table - nobody's dinner was safe! After much testing, we figured that the ultimate dinner would be the Wild Pheasant and Apple Burger (the Husband's choice), followed by the meltingly tender Slow Roasted Pork Belly (my lucky pick) but the desert would be a toss up. I had the Fig Tart Tatin, which came with Toffee Ice Cream, but there were lots of other tempting options. A leisurely, hospitable three course Sunday lunch is just €34.

You can catch me talking to Ultan and Henry on Foodtalk: Garden on Newstalk 106-108fm at 7.30am tomorrow, Saturday 24 January, and Sunday 25 January at 9.30pm or listen online here: Foodtalk on Newstalk - Garden.mp3

The True Cost of Cheap Food

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Watch out for The True Cost of Cheap Food on Channel 4 tonight at 8pm as Observer food critic Jay Rayner looks into the realities of cheap pre-prepared supermarket food. With an ever-increasing rise in the purchase of supermarket value ranges, Rayner asks if supermarkets have a responsibility to feed their customers properly. You can read his article from Sunday here. Judging by the profits made by Tesco alone in the last year (£1.8bn in the UK), it doesn't look like they're going to want to do anything that might eat into their shareholders gravy train, especially when it involves beef pies with just 18% actual beef and sausages that are just 40% pork.

Should be worth a look anyway - at least there's downloading available on 4oD for the residents of the cottage-without-a-tv!

parsnippecanmuffins_300.jpg Last night the Husband and I headed along to the first 2009 get together of the North Cork Organic Group, no doubt tempted by the fact that the group was concentrating on seasonal food for the meeting! The newsletter, kindly dropped in by my Rockmills Neighbour, asked for recipes and, if possible samples, of dishes using root vegetables. Inspired by the proud parsnips that I had picked up last week at the Mahon Point Farmers' Market, I decided to use them in a sweet recipe. If you can bake carrots into a cake then why not make muffins out of their sweeter sister?

An online search threw up this recipe for Parsnip Muffins on the Whole Foods Market website. Parsnips, apples, pecans and spices - it sounded like a good plan to me. And it kept sounding like a good plan until I got to the cooking stage. Somehow 20-25 minutes turned into something more like 30-35 minutes. Time was ticking away, we were supposed to be gone and I was already sick of the whole project.

In disgust, I abandoned the muffins, jumped into the car and we arrived just in time for the start of the evening at the Nano Nagle Center. There were plenty of tastings and lots of interesting food on offer, from little Potato Pancakes to a savoury Turnip Gratin. Despite Carmel Somers' inspiring ideas about turnip (she bakes slices of turnip with lots of grated ginger) is the one vegetable that I just don't seem to have any time for but the night gave me some ideas for this most ubiquitous of Irish vegetables.

And my muffins? They weren't actually so bad when I tried them after we got home, rather dense like carrot cake but well flavoured. This morning they made an entirely acceptable breakfast, heated and served with butter and honey. Here's a link to the original recipe and below you can see my adapted one - extra spices, dried cranberries, and a change in the timing. I cooked my muffins at 180°C in a fan oven.

2009 Irish Blog Awards Nominations

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IBA09-Nominated.gif
I've been nominated for an Irish Blog Award in the Best Food/Drink Blog category, along with another 26 - count 'em! - Irish food, wine and beer bloggers. The entire category list below so take a good look around, there's plenty of interesting reading out there. The full list of this year's Irish Blog Awards Nominations is now online here. Well done to the organisers - they've done a fabulous job putting it all together. This Awards are taking place closer to home for me this year, in the design-tastic Cork International Airport Hotel on 21 February.

Best Food/Drink Blog - Sponsored by Bord Bia
Ruth's Kitchen Experiments: justaddeggs.blogspot.com
Well Done Fillet: welldonefillet.blogspot.com
Sour Grapes: sourgrapes.ie
Italian Foodies: italianfoodies.wordpress.com
Forkncork: forkncork.com

Cheapeats.ie: cheapeats.ie
Ifoods.tv: ifoods.tv/blog
Food Culture West Cork: foodculturewestcork.wordpress.com
Food And Drink: foodanddrinkireland.blogspot.com
Bubble Brothers: bubblebrothers.com/blog

Ice Cream Ireland: icecreamireland.com
The Good Mood Food Blog: thegoodmoodfoodblog.com
The Daily Spud: thedailyspud.com
Curious: The Curious Wines Wine Blog: curiouswines.ie/blog

A Food Journey In Korea: macs-foodkorea.blogspot.com
Olliesplace: olivermoore.blogspot.com
Little Bird Eats...: littlebirdeats.wordpress.com
Cookzors: cookzors.com
Messy-chef » Recipes And Reviews: messy-chef.com/blog

Robert Francis Wine Review: robertfranciswine.ie/wordpress
The Other Black Stuff: www.theotherblackstuff.ie
Tast.ie: The Spicendipity Irish Food Blog: tast.ie
Bibliocook: All About Food: bibliocook.com
Lidl Treats: lidltreats.com

Eater's Regret: eatersregret.wordpress.com
Cully And Sully: cullyandsully.ie
Val's Kitchen: valskitchen.com

Upgrading fun and games

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Trying to upgrade Bibliocook at the moment and, like last year, there's been a lot of frustration and pulling my hair out over long nights at the computer. Fortunately the Techie and her Husband have stepped in to help out so I hope to be back in the land of the useable blog very soon. Wish us luck!

Foodtalk: Podcasts

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Spices on the Green Saffron stallJust discovered that Foodtalk: Spices is available to listen to as a podcast from the Newstalk podcasts page – Foodtalk on Newstalk is at the top of the page so you can't miss it! Check out Conor's Bandon Blog for useful information on listening and subscribing online.

Foodtalk: Spices

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Arun Kapil On Newstalk 106-108fm tonight at 9.30pm the third of my radio shows on food – Foodtalk: Spices – will be broadcast. This was one of the real wild cards of the series. Most of the other categories were easy to figure out: Livestock was a given, as was Dairy and Seafood. Being interested in foraging and gardening since childhood, and doing plenty of that at the cottage, Wild and Garden were also easy areas to work in, but Spices was an area that just came out of the blue.

Then I focused in on Carmel Somers of The Good Things Café in Durrus and Arun Kapil of Green Saffron and everything just fell into place. Carmel does amazing things with good quality Irish produce like lamb, turnip and cabbage, matching them with imaginative spice combinations, while Arun imports the absolute best of spices direct from India and has woken Irish people up to the possibilities of such really, really fresh flavours. See what you think tonight.

About this Archive

This page is an archive of entries from January 2009 listed from newest to oldest.

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